Not your average travel blog...
WELCOME to The Bush Babe, an honest, no-nonsense, all-singing, all-dancing guide to the very best destinations the African wilds have to offer the discerning world traveller...
Ho hum, it sounds like marketing hogwash already doesn't it? OK. Let's try the intro again, in true Bush Babe fashion...
This is a blog site for people who want to know the unvarnished, absolute truth about the places the Africa safari brochures flog ad nauseum, invariably under the "Luxury" banner. It takes the good, the bad, and occasionally the downright ugly, and offers proper perspective from The Bush Babe.
Because she spends so much time visiting these places, "the Babe" is able to compare apples with apples, and not offer complete lemons in their stead. So when she tells you a place is the mutt's nuts, you'll know for sure that it really is the canine's testicals and worthy of your wedge.
The Bush Babe has been around (nudge nudge, wink wink) - from Tanzania to Mozambique, Namibia to Zambia and South Africa to Botswana - she's test-driven some of Africa's top safari lodges (and more than a few wannabees in the process).
So, without further ado, here, in her own words, is what she (really) thinks of them...
Ho hum, it sounds like marketing hogwash already doesn't it? OK. Let's try the intro again, in true Bush Babe fashion...
This is a blog site for people who want to know the unvarnished, absolute truth about the places the Africa safari brochures flog ad nauseum, invariably under the "Luxury" banner. It takes the good, the bad, and occasionally the downright ugly, and offers proper perspective from The Bush Babe.
Because she spends so much time visiting these places, "the Babe" is able to compare apples with apples, and not offer complete lemons in their stead. So when she tells you a place is the mutt's nuts, you'll know for sure that it really is the canine's testicals and worthy of your wedge.
The Bush Babe has been around (nudge nudge, wink wink) - from Tanzania to Mozambique, Namibia to Zambia and South Africa to Botswana - she's test-driven some of Africa's top safari lodges (and more than a few wannabees in the process).
So, without further ado, here, in her own words, is what she (really) thinks of them...
AFTER all her years at the coal-face, guzzling untold litres of the pale brown nectar, The Bush Babe has finally been recognised for her contribution to the Amarula cause. She's a judge on the inaugural Amarula Best 100 Retreats in Africa Awards. It's a tough assignment which involves travelling to far-flung corners of the continent to find the best place to get away from it all... FAB! And with a glass of her favourite sundowner close at hand, what more could The Bush Babe wish for? Watch this space!
REVIEWS...
Serengeti sunset
I had to multitask while taking this picture - downing an Amarula (obligatory sundowner), fiddling with the settings on my camera (without consulting the manual) and swatting tsetse flies, all at the same time.
Singita Grumeti Reserves, Tanzania
WOW! That was my first reaction when I began to page through a rather fabulous-looking book an excited Luke Bailes thrust into my hands at Indaba a couple of years ago. "It's our new brochure" beamed the multi-millionaire, down-to-earth owner of one of South Africa's most respected (and envied) safari lodge groups - Singita.
"Brochure?" I breathed... "But it's beautiful...!"
And as I opened up a double gatefold page which was a photograph of an incredible panorama of plains, distant hills and animals, Bailes jumped in and announced: "That's our new place - Grumeti Reserves - you HAVE to get up there and have a look!"
Now, when Luke Bailes invites you to go see his latest property, you can't exactly say no, so like a true Bush Babe I was in like Flynn with a "YES!"
The new venture borders the Serengeti National Park in Tanzania. Yup. I was off to East Africa, for the first time in 40 years I was to set eyes on the places which got me hooked on Africa as a toddler - and the animals which took me on my first steps to being the Bush Babe that I am...
The moistness in my eyes soon dried up when it came time to put the trip together. Getting to the Grumeti is not exactly straightforward, and requires some serious travelling. But off I set on the now defunct Tanzania Airways to Kilimanjaro International Airport... via Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar.
From Kili - where you arrive in the dark so no glimpse of the iconic mountain - it was off to Arusha by car, to the absolutely appalling Arusha Coffee Lodge for an overnight stay before winging our way to the Grumeti.
When I say absolutely appalling, I mean it. Dirty, scruffy, crap service, even crapper food and yet billed as a luxury, five-star hotel in what is the hub for anyone going vaguely near the Serengeti.
But hey, you win some, you lose some - it was a place to sleep. Just don't, anyone reading this, ever EVER stay there!
And so, from Arusha to Sasakwa airstrip, via the rift valley and Ngorogoro Crater (which you fly over on your route to the great plains...)
The crater is breathtaking from the air, as are the plains - vaste swathes of land dotted with life in all its majesty - and just a few million wildebeest.
Singita's lodges at Grumeti Reserves have been well-kept secrets during their reconstruction. Not for long though - it’s hard to keep camps like Sabora Plains, Faru Faru and Sasakwa under wraps.
Let me state here and now that this is perhaps the epitome of 5-star safari experiences, in keeping with Singita's other legendary lodges in the Sabi Sands and Kruger Park.
So if I get a bit gushy, and "fab" on you please understand it's because these places really are FIRST CLASS and, some would say, unbeatable in terms of oppulence and service...
SABORA, Faru Faru and Sasakwa are as different as chalk, cheese and marmite and individually special places. All enjoy unparalleled views – Faru Faru of the Grumeti river and its riverine forests, Sabora of the endless plain which gives it its name and Sasakwa from atop a hill with views of forever.
Game is plentiful, particularly during the annual wildebeest migration - a natural phenomenon without equal – and thanks to an ambitious black rhino reintroduction programme, the ubiquitous Big Five are soon to be all present and correct.
When it comes to predators, you’ll most likely trip over the lion here, especially during the migration. They grab passing wildebeest like you or I would grab a cold one from the fridge and frequently are so full from the previous beastie they've just ingested that they only take a nibble before falling over into a food-induced coma-like sleep.
The only downside (yes, there is a downside) comes in the form of a six-legged pest - the tsetse fly. It patrols the plains like a mosquito on steroids, hitching a ride on the game vehicles and biting through layers of clothes to get to flesh, which then burns and itches like hell. But whatever you do, DON'T SCRATCH! If you scratch a tsetse bite, it will morph into a huge, hot, seething welt which won't stop hurting and itching for days.
So you have to ignore the discomfort, and arm yourself with a cow-tail fly-swat, a la Jomo Kenyata.
So, just how FAB is the accommodation? Let's give the three lodges a quick run-down...
SABORA PLAINS TENTED CAMP is heaven. Its furnishings and trappings evoke the era of Hemingway and Blixen, of a time when tents were so much more than two-man domes. In fact, Sabora’s tents are more like canvas villas. Persian carpets, four-poster beds, plump cushions, genuine antique furniture and a bath-tub with a view of forever all add up to the quintessential safari experience. Add to the mix a sea of wildebeest and you have heaven under an African sky which seems to stretch to infinity. Perhaps the most amazing thing about the wildebeest here is that being in a tent places them extremely close to you, especially when it comes to the loud “GNU!” which has given them their colloquial name (and which they seem powerless to stop making!)Imagine a few thousand “GNU!”s in surround sound with the amp turned up to max! Mix in a few braying zebra and some random lion roars for good measure and you have the hip-hop track of a lifetime.
FARU FARU is perhaps the epitome of old meets new. The underlying theme of a 1950s botanists’ camp gives it a unique “old” feel, with laboratory beakers, sketches of plants and lots of earthy, back-to-nature features like packed stone walls and sandy floors. The “new” comes from the amazing contemporary organic décor in varying shades of cream, brown and grey. The overall result is refreshingly original and rivals Singita’s other “nouveau” lodges – Boulders in the Sabi Sands and Lebombo and Sweni (both in the Kruger National Park).
Two perfectly azure swimming pools, nooks and crannies, salas, plump loungers and rooms packed with classy finishing touches make this an ultimate escape. Frankly, beautiful though it is, some of the trappings are just not practical and detract from the levels of comfort. Phillippe Starke chairs have their place, but the bush is not it.
SASAKWA is, well, awesome. A huge homestead with cottages spread out around it, this is the flagship of Grumeti Reserves and the creme de la creme of Tanzanian safari lodges. It's everything you've ever dreamed of in an African homestead, from genuine antiques, sterling silver service, candelabra, dark leather and polished teak to grand pianos, billiard tables, wood panelling and brandy and cigars after dinner. The cottages which make up the accommodation are more like houses (mine had nine rooms and was easily 200 square metres in size, with the ubiquitous plunge pool and a view of that forever I mentioned. There's also a telly, DSTV and DVD player which means your significant other can catch up on the sport. Frankly, I don't like these things in the bush... they detract from where you are and what you should be doing, which is out watching lions nail wildebeest.
AT the end of the day, though, its people who make any safari experience perfect, and Singita Grumeti Reserves is no slouch in this respect, with service levels beyond compare. It values people as much as environment and operates a superlative and pioneering community trust, making a real and lasting difference to the lives of local people.
My only complaint comes in the form of a gentle criticism of dinner protocol. I love the whole communal dinner table thing in lodges, and at Grumeti Reserves they don't do it. You are stuck with Mr (or Mrs) each night for dinner, and sometimes crave conversation with other people... And I really can do without music in the bush, so the added irritation of "The Best of the Three Tenors" when I'm trying to listen for distant lions calling is also a detractor. Oh well, every form of paradise has its price, I guess.
THE LOWDOWN
Getting there: SAA runs scheduled services from Johannesburg to Dar es Salaam, but perhaps a cheaper option is on Zambezi Airlines from Josies, via Lusaka, to Dar. From Dar it's a short hop on a local carrier to Arusha, from where all Serengeti lodge transfers tend to fly. Alternatively, you can opt for Kenya Airways and make the hop from Nairobi to Arusha by bus, or charter plane. Because of flight arrival times, you may have to overnight either in Dar or Arusha before getting your short flight to Singita's Sasakwa airstrip.
For more info, check out www.singita.com
"Brochure?" I breathed... "But it's beautiful...!"
And as I opened up a double gatefold page which was a photograph of an incredible panorama of plains, distant hills and animals, Bailes jumped in and announced: "That's our new place - Grumeti Reserves - you HAVE to get up there and have a look!"
Now, when Luke Bailes invites you to go see his latest property, you can't exactly say no, so like a true Bush Babe I was in like Flynn with a "YES!"
The new venture borders the Serengeti National Park in Tanzania. Yup. I was off to East Africa, for the first time in 40 years I was to set eyes on the places which got me hooked on Africa as a toddler - and the animals which took me on my first steps to being the Bush Babe that I am...
The moistness in my eyes soon dried up when it came time to put the trip together. Getting to the Grumeti is not exactly straightforward, and requires some serious travelling. But off I set on the now defunct Tanzania Airways to Kilimanjaro International Airport... via Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar.
From Kili - where you arrive in the dark so no glimpse of the iconic mountain - it was off to Arusha by car, to the absolutely appalling Arusha Coffee Lodge for an overnight stay before winging our way to the Grumeti.
When I say absolutely appalling, I mean it. Dirty, scruffy, crap service, even crapper food and yet billed as a luxury, five-star hotel in what is the hub for anyone going vaguely near the Serengeti.
But hey, you win some, you lose some - it was a place to sleep. Just don't, anyone reading this, ever EVER stay there!
And so, from Arusha to Sasakwa airstrip, via the rift valley and Ngorogoro Crater (which you fly over on your route to the great plains...)
The crater is breathtaking from the air, as are the plains - vaste swathes of land dotted with life in all its majesty - and just a few million wildebeest.
Singita's lodges at Grumeti Reserves have been well-kept secrets during their reconstruction. Not for long though - it’s hard to keep camps like Sabora Plains, Faru Faru and Sasakwa under wraps.
Let me state here and now that this is perhaps the epitome of 5-star safari experiences, in keeping with Singita's other legendary lodges in the Sabi Sands and Kruger Park.
So if I get a bit gushy, and "fab" on you please understand it's because these places really are FIRST CLASS and, some would say, unbeatable in terms of oppulence and service...
SABORA, Faru Faru and Sasakwa are as different as chalk, cheese and marmite and individually special places. All enjoy unparalleled views – Faru Faru of the Grumeti river and its riverine forests, Sabora of the endless plain which gives it its name and Sasakwa from atop a hill with views of forever.
Game is plentiful, particularly during the annual wildebeest migration - a natural phenomenon without equal – and thanks to an ambitious black rhino reintroduction programme, the ubiquitous Big Five are soon to be all present and correct.
When it comes to predators, you’ll most likely trip over the lion here, especially during the migration. They grab passing wildebeest like you or I would grab a cold one from the fridge and frequently are so full from the previous beastie they've just ingested that they only take a nibble before falling over into a food-induced coma-like sleep.
The only downside (yes, there is a downside) comes in the form of a six-legged pest - the tsetse fly. It patrols the plains like a mosquito on steroids, hitching a ride on the game vehicles and biting through layers of clothes to get to flesh, which then burns and itches like hell. But whatever you do, DON'T SCRATCH! If you scratch a tsetse bite, it will morph into a huge, hot, seething welt which won't stop hurting and itching for days.
So you have to ignore the discomfort, and arm yourself with a cow-tail fly-swat, a la Jomo Kenyata.
So, just how FAB is the accommodation? Let's give the three lodges a quick run-down...
SABORA PLAINS TENTED CAMP is heaven. Its furnishings and trappings evoke the era of Hemingway and Blixen, of a time when tents were so much more than two-man domes. In fact, Sabora’s tents are more like canvas villas. Persian carpets, four-poster beds, plump cushions, genuine antique furniture and a bath-tub with a view of forever all add up to the quintessential safari experience. Add to the mix a sea of wildebeest and you have heaven under an African sky which seems to stretch to infinity. Perhaps the most amazing thing about the wildebeest here is that being in a tent places them extremely close to you, especially when it comes to the loud “GNU!” which has given them their colloquial name (and which they seem powerless to stop making!)Imagine a few thousand “GNU!”s in surround sound with the amp turned up to max! Mix in a few braying zebra and some random lion roars for good measure and you have the hip-hop track of a lifetime.
FARU FARU is perhaps the epitome of old meets new. The underlying theme of a 1950s botanists’ camp gives it a unique “old” feel, with laboratory beakers, sketches of plants and lots of earthy, back-to-nature features like packed stone walls and sandy floors. The “new” comes from the amazing contemporary organic décor in varying shades of cream, brown and grey. The overall result is refreshingly original and rivals Singita’s other “nouveau” lodges – Boulders in the Sabi Sands and Lebombo and Sweni (both in the Kruger National Park).
Two perfectly azure swimming pools, nooks and crannies, salas, plump loungers and rooms packed with classy finishing touches make this an ultimate escape. Frankly, beautiful though it is, some of the trappings are just not practical and detract from the levels of comfort. Phillippe Starke chairs have their place, but the bush is not it.
SASAKWA is, well, awesome. A huge homestead with cottages spread out around it, this is the flagship of Grumeti Reserves and the creme de la creme of Tanzanian safari lodges. It's everything you've ever dreamed of in an African homestead, from genuine antiques, sterling silver service, candelabra, dark leather and polished teak to grand pianos, billiard tables, wood panelling and brandy and cigars after dinner. The cottages which make up the accommodation are more like houses (mine had nine rooms and was easily 200 square metres in size, with the ubiquitous plunge pool and a view of that forever I mentioned. There's also a telly, DSTV and DVD player which means your significant other can catch up on the sport. Frankly, I don't like these things in the bush... they detract from where you are and what you should be doing, which is out watching lions nail wildebeest.
AT the end of the day, though, its people who make any safari experience perfect, and Singita Grumeti Reserves is no slouch in this respect, with service levels beyond compare. It values people as much as environment and operates a superlative and pioneering community trust, making a real and lasting difference to the lives of local people.
My only complaint comes in the form of a gentle criticism of dinner protocol. I love the whole communal dinner table thing in lodges, and at Grumeti Reserves they don't do it. You are stuck with Mr (or Mrs) each night for dinner, and sometimes crave conversation with other people... And I really can do without music in the bush, so the added irritation of "The Best of the Three Tenors" when I'm trying to listen for distant lions calling is also a detractor. Oh well, every form of paradise has its price, I guess.
THE LOWDOWN
Getting there: SAA runs scheduled services from Johannesburg to Dar es Salaam, but perhaps a cheaper option is on Zambezi Airlines from Josies, via Lusaka, to Dar. From Dar it's a short hop on a local carrier to Arusha, from where all Serengeti lodge transfers tend to fly. Alternatively, you can opt for Kenya Airways and make the hop from Nairobi to Arusha by bus, or charter plane. Because of flight arrival times, you may have to overnight either in Dar or Arusha before getting your short flight to Singita's Sasakwa airstrip.
For more info, check out www.singita.com
Lesheba Wilderness: Limpopo, South Africa
Views of forever are par for the course at Lesheba Wilderness in Limpopo's Soutpansberg.
All around the Rainbow Nation tourism operators are heeding the call of the international visitor to include some facet of cultural interest in their holiday packages. For most this is mere window-dressing, and largely unimaginative window dressing at that. But for a few, the commitment to the culture they are showcasing is real and meaningful on more than the money-making level.
Cultural tourism, done properly, walks hand-in-hand with responsible tourism, a fact not lost on Lesheba Wilderness, a retreat high in the Soutpansberg mountains where the Venda culture is celebrated with considerable style and flair.
Located a short drive from Makhado (formerly Louis Trichardt - yes, I know, the name changes are a freaking nightmare) it's not exactly the easiest of places to get to and requires no small amount of fortitude, good brakes and the ability to see over the top of your steering wheel.
A dirt road leads inconspicuously off the R522, running alongside the aptly named Sand River. The sand of the Sand is used in local building, and large trucks vie for limited space on the narrow road, that is, until the road begins to climb.
Climb is, perhaps, an understatement for the winding, bumpy track which leads apparently heavenwards, often at seemingly impossible angles which can cause even the most adventurous of drivers to blanche. Although traversable by the average saloon, the higher undercarriage of a 4X4 is infinitely preferable to avoid dings and bangs which sound expensive, and prove invariably to be so.
Half an hour of careful negotiation, smirking at the clever signs along the way – “You are halfway to Lesheba Wilderness...” “Only 12 more bumps to go to Lesheba Wilderness...” – brings visitors to a veritable Shangri La – a hidden valley high in the mountains, surrounded by towering spires of rock with the most incredible views and panoramas. And what I think is one of the most delightful places to stay in South Africa – the Venda Village.
This is the culture of the Venda people transmogrified into a lodge of distinction, thanks to the amazing skills of Venda artist and sculptor Noria Mabasa and carver Paul Thavana. It’s more than worth the arduous ascent.
BUILT on a bluff overlooking the valley on the site of an ancient Venda settlement and lovingly restored by the vision of Lesheba’s owner, John Rosmarin, Mabasa was invited to make the Venda Village her own, adding some of the most unique finishing touches to be found in an African lodge.
The village’s small collection of huts is connected by pathways and “yards” filled with interesting nooks and crannies, which in turn are festooned with other-wordly sculptures of animals and people.
Inside, the huts are cleverly designed to make guests cosy and comfortable, with full en-suite facilities and quirky touches in keeping with the artistic splendour outside.
A central lounge and dining room echo the flair of Mabasa’s sculpture and Thavana’s intricate, imaginative carvings, with plump, bright Venda fabrics adding a blaze of colour and texture to the terra-cotta exteriors and the breathtaking panoramas of the Dulini valley, spread like a carpet of green and gold beneath the village.
To either side of the Venda Village, nestled in their own natural gardens, are Mwedzi and Dhuva – two luxury suites complete with their own fully-equipped kitchens and private plunge pools overlooking the valley.
OK, plunge pools, schmunge pools. Every Thomas, Richard and Harold of a self-respecting "luxury" lodge has it's own private pool... And as private pools go, Mwedzi and Dhuva's are below average, but completely in keeping with the surroundings and they do offer couples a place to cool off from the hot Limpopo sun, away from prying eyes. Yes, skinny dipping in the bush is a cooool thing to do, especially with the man/woman of your dreams.
So while I have no problem with the pools, per se, un-original, and un-Venda as they are, it was disappointing to note that the pool pumps are not disguised and lend rather a jarring note to an otherwise fab set-up at the suites.
Otherwise, no complaints - Mwedzi and Dhuva are stunning, with their own well-equipped kitchens offering a rare opportunity to stay in luxury surroundings and self-cater.
Although why anyone would when hostess, manager and chef extraordinaire Joyce Manaudsi is cooking up a storm is beyond me. The woman is a marvel and evening meals on the deck or in the dining room are a real treat.
THE history of the area is extensive, with ancient rock art sites and archaeological discoveries going back to a time before the nearby ancient site of Mapungubwe, which itself pre-dates Great Zimbabwe.
The staff of the Venda Village are all locals – Joyce was born here and has been carefully nurtured and groomed by the Rosmarin family to run the Venda Village and is a fantastic asset to Lesheba, tending marvelously to guests’ every need as well as cooking and serving fantastic meals and afternoon treats.
The celebration of culture at Lesheba, which is an accredited member of Fair Trade in Tourism South Africa, is topped off with its commitment to the environment and the natural heritage of the area.
Game roams the valleys of Lesheba, including giraffe, rhino, zebra, eland and impala, and leopards and brown hyaena haunt the surrounding hills, leaving their impressive paw-prints regularly for visitors to find.
Nature walks, game drives, star-gazing, hiking and delicious picnics in the hidden vleis are offered to guests, with horse trails on the cards for the future, all of which adds up to a truly wonderful holiday experience.
To be honest, they could do with a new game drive vehicle - as into antiques as I am a 1970's Landcruiser is a boneshaker of note, and while full of character, not the quietest of things when trying to approach interesting things in an undetectable manner! But we'll let that one slide, with a rating of an outstanding 8 out of 10 and a firm recommendation to anyone and everyone to try the place out.
THE LOWDOWN
Getting there: Lesheba Wilderness is an easy four and a half-hour drive from Johannesburg, to which must be added another 30-minutes for the climb up the 9km-long spectacular mountain road! The route is simple, taking the N1 highway north, past Polokwane to Makhado (Louis Trichardt) before turning left in Makhado onto the R522 to Vivo. The signpost for Lesheba is on the right, 36km along the R522, just over the Sand River.
Accommodation: The Venda Village can accommodate nine people in five huts, one of which is a single. All the huts are en-suite and rates start at R1100 per person, per night on a dinner, bed and breakfast basis with one activity per day included.
The two luxury suites sleep two people each and are available on a dinner, bed and breakfast basis from R1450 per person, per night, including a daily activity. Alternatively, they can be booked on a self-catering basis from R550 per person, per night.
Lesheba Wilderness also offers a self-catering bush camp called Hamasha Camp. This sleeps eight people in two large two-bedroom chalets, all en-suite, and has a central communal lounge and kitchen, together with outside braai facilities. Prices are from R320 per person, per night.
For more information: Visit www.lesheba.co.za
Cultural tourism, done properly, walks hand-in-hand with responsible tourism, a fact not lost on Lesheba Wilderness, a retreat high in the Soutpansberg mountains where the Venda culture is celebrated with considerable style and flair.
Located a short drive from Makhado (formerly Louis Trichardt - yes, I know, the name changes are a freaking nightmare) it's not exactly the easiest of places to get to and requires no small amount of fortitude, good brakes and the ability to see over the top of your steering wheel.
A dirt road leads inconspicuously off the R522, running alongside the aptly named Sand River. The sand of the Sand is used in local building, and large trucks vie for limited space on the narrow road, that is, until the road begins to climb.
Climb is, perhaps, an understatement for the winding, bumpy track which leads apparently heavenwards, often at seemingly impossible angles which can cause even the most adventurous of drivers to blanche. Although traversable by the average saloon, the higher undercarriage of a 4X4 is infinitely preferable to avoid dings and bangs which sound expensive, and prove invariably to be so.
Half an hour of careful negotiation, smirking at the clever signs along the way – “You are halfway to Lesheba Wilderness...” “Only 12 more bumps to go to Lesheba Wilderness...” – brings visitors to a veritable Shangri La – a hidden valley high in the mountains, surrounded by towering spires of rock with the most incredible views and panoramas. And what I think is one of the most delightful places to stay in South Africa – the Venda Village.
This is the culture of the Venda people transmogrified into a lodge of distinction, thanks to the amazing skills of Venda artist and sculptor Noria Mabasa and carver Paul Thavana. It’s more than worth the arduous ascent.
BUILT on a bluff overlooking the valley on the site of an ancient Venda settlement and lovingly restored by the vision of Lesheba’s owner, John Rosmarin, Mabasa was invited to make the Venda Village her own, adding some of the most unique finishing touches to be found in an African lodge.
The village’s small collection of huts is connected by pathways and “yards” filled with interesting nooks and crannies, which in turn are festooned with other-wordly sculptures of animals and people.
Inside, the huts are cleverly designed to make guests cosy and comfortable, with full en-suite facilities and quirky touches in keeping with the artistic splendour outside.
A central lounge and dining room echo the flair of Mabasa’s sculpture and Thavana’s intricate, imaginative carvings, with plump, bright Venda fabrics adding a blaze of colour and texture to the terra-cotta exteriors and the breathtaking panoramas of the Dulini valley, spread like a carpet of green and gold beneath the village.
To either side of the Venda Village, nestled in their own natural gardens, are Mwedzi and Dhuva – two luxury suites complete with their own fully-equipped kitchens and private plunge pools overlooking the valley.
OK, plunge pools, schmunge pools. Every Thomas, Richard and Harold of a self-respecting "luxury" lodge has it's own private pool... And as private pools go, Mwedzi and Dhuva's are below average, but completely in keeping with the surroundings and they do offer couples a place to cool off from the hot Limpopo sun, away from prying eyes. Yes, skinny dipping in the bush is a cooool thing to do, especially with the man/woman of your dreams.
So while I have no problem with the pools, per se, un-original, and un-Venda as they are, it was disappointing to note that the pool pumps are not disguised and lend rather a jarring note to an otherwise fab set-up at the suites.
Otherwise, no complaints - Mwedzi and Dhuva are stunning, with their own well-equipped kitchens offering a rare opportunity to stay in luxury surroundings and self-cater.
Although why anyone would when hostess, manager and chef extraordinaire Joyce Manaudsi is cooking up a storm is beyond me. The woman is a marvel and evening meals on the deck or in the dining room are a real treat.
THE history of the area is extensive, with ancient rock art sites and archaeological discoveries going back to a time before the nearby ancient site of Mapungubwe, which itself pre-dates Great Zimbabwe.
The staff of the Venda Village are all locals – Joyce was born here and has been carefully nurtured and groomed by the Rosmarin family to run the Venda Village and is a fantastic asset to Lesheba, tending marvelously to guests’ every need as well as cooking and serving fantastic meals and afternoon treats.
The celebration of culture at Lesheba, which is an accredited member of Fair Trade in Tourism South Africa, is topped off with its commitment to the environment and the natural heritage of the area.
Game roams the valleys of Lesheba, including giraffe, rhino, zebra, eland and impala, and leopards and brown hyaena haunt the surrounding hills, leaving their impressive paw-prints regularly for visitors to find.
Nature walks, game drives, star-gazing, hiking and delicious picnics in the hidden vleis are offered to guests, with horse trails on the cards for the future, all of which adds up to a truly wonderful holiday experience.
To be honest, they could do with a new game drive vehicle - as into antiques as I am a 1970's Landcruiser is a boneshaker of note, and while full of character, not the quietest of things when trying to approach interesting things in an undetectable manner! But we'll let that one slide, with a rating of an outstanding 8 out of 10 and a firm recommendation to anyone and everyone to try the place out.
THE LOWDOWN
Getting there: Lesheba Wilderness is an easy four and a half-hour drive from Johannesburg, to which must be added another 30-minutes for the climb up the 9km-long spectacular mountain road! The route is simple, taking the N1 highway north, past Polokwane to Makhado (Louis Trichardt) before turning left in Makhado onto the R522 to Vivo. The signpost for Lesheba is on the right, 36km along the R522, just over the Sand River.
Accommodation: The Venda Village can accommodate nine people in five huts, one of which is a single. All the huts are en-suite and rates start at R1100 per person, per night on a dinner, bed and breakfast basis with one activity per day included.
The two luxury suites sleep two people each and are available on a dinner, bed and breakfast basis from R1450 per person, per night, including a daily activity. Alternatively, they can be booked on a self-catering basis from R550 per person, per night.
Lesheba Wilderness also offers a self-catering bush camp called Hamasha Camp. This sleeps eight people in two large two-bedroom chalets, all en-suite, and has a central communal lounge and kitchen, together with outside braai facilities. Prices are from R320 per person, per night.
For more information: Visit www.lesheba.co.za
